Well, all that is left is the corset! And I just cut all the pieces this weekend, using my handy dandy pattern I made.
I also realized over the weekend that I should have placed a pocket on the lining of my bolero so that I could hold useful things such as ID, money/credit card, and a flask of some sort of beverage. I suppose I will have to incorporate lots of useful pockets into my husband’s Booker costume now so he can hold all of our things …
Regardless here is how I put together the skirt for my Bioshock Infinite costume.
1) Put skirt pieces right sides together and stitch down one side.
2) On the other side, baste about 18″-24″ up from the bottom edge of the skirt. You may even want to go higher, I feel like I didn’t do enough on this part. Gather the skirt heavily along these basted stitches. Place the two sides of the skirt (with gathers) right side together and stitch.
3) Out of the white cuff fabric cut two 3″ tall pieces of fabric that matches the width of each skirt piece (I used the bottom of the skirt pattern piece, along a fold, to cut this). Cut a scalloped edge along this new white fabric piece – I made each “scallop” 2″ long. Zigzag stitch along the edges of the scallops. Stitch the ends of the scallop pieces together on one side. You may want to give yourself some extra length on these pieces … even though they measured the same as the skirt width, the crushed panne velvet I used as skirt fabric moved and stretched enough that I wound up with less scallop than skirt. Bugger. I improvised and added another small piece of scallop fabric when the original ran out. Hopefully no one will look too closely, but I think the mistake is fairly well hidden.
4) Pin the hem for the bottom of the skirt. As you are doing so, place the scalloped piece underneath the outer fabric so that it gets attached when you do the hem stitching.
5) Stitch the two waistband pieces together along a short edge, right sides together. Place right sides together again and stitch the waistband piece into a circle along the other short edge.
6) Place the right side of the waist band along the inside waist edge of the skirt, right side of waistband to the wrong side of the skirt. Stitch along the top edge of the waistband.
7) Fold the waistband over at the middle and press. Also, fold the bottom edge of the waistband under and press. Place the bottom edge over the waist seam you just sewed, pin, and top stitch this down. This is done on the outside of the skirt. Make sure you leave an opening to insert the elastic.
8) Cut a piece of 2″ elastic to a comfortable size for your body. Insert into the waistband casing, and after it is through, stitch the ends of the elastic together with a zigzag stitch. Close the elastic casing by stitching the elastic opening shut. You may want to stitch the waistband and elastic together at the side seams once the elastic is inside, so that it doesn’t move around too much inside the casing, but this is entirely up to you.
I’m not sure yet if I want to let the skirt hang down as it naturally does, or if I want to wear a poofy slip underneath to give it some shape. Here is the jacket and the skirt, without said poofy slip (and without the corset, obviously). Thoughts? Does it need a bit more fullness to it? I really wish I had pulled more gathers on the one side of the skirt. I may try to undo part of the seam and add some more; you can’t even tell they are there.
Here is a closeup of the gathers, with some sandals I will NOT be wearing with this costume. When I get the fantastic Steampunk-y boots I ordered, you’ll get to see the complete look.
I think I am happy with this costume so far, except for the gathered part. Maybe when the corset is done I’ll share a picture with the slip under the skirt. Slip won’t really be much of an option if I lift the gathers any higher, so I guess I need to make that decision before I modify. Hmmm.