In between Fluttershy and Liono I have wanted to sew everything except Liono … I had a weekend near the end of February where I cut lots, stitched lots, and then decided I better get going on drafting a pattern for Liono. It’s a good thing Megacon is a whole month later this year!
Liono will be my first time drafting and sewing spandex – eeeeek! So I read up a bit – this tutorial, and the tutorials by The Geeky Seamstress were most helpful.
I’ve had a slightly modified design in my head for my gender bent version of Liono.
The most complicated thing about it will be dealing with the spandex – the design itself is not bad.
Before I started drafting, I measured the stretch on my spandex fabric. I measured 10″ of the fabric without stretching …
…and then measured how far I could comfortably pull it.
It *can* stretch about 50%, but i’m more comfortable with the idea of about 30-35% stretch, so that is what I used.
Next I took some measurements. In case, you are curious, this is typically my measurement process: (1) make a list of somewhat sensical descriptions of what you are measuring, (2) then measure, and (3) write down your numbers. I always add an inch to my measurements for seam allowances on each side, but since this was spandex, and I would be reducing anyway, I didn’t bother.
I decided I would draw out all of my pattern pieces as if they were a normal woven fabric, and once I had those drawn, I would adjust the size based on my stretch percentage.
I only reduced on the width line, figuring I could adjust around the seams the other direction. I have read to be wary about how spandex needs to stretch when you move or bend over as well, so that is why I am being more cautious in the vertical direction.
Here are my final pattern pieces:
I did not reduce the skirt waist out of paranoia that it would hang funny if stretched at the top … But I’m probably gonna have to reduce it to connect it to the belt.
There is one piece missing, the belt symbol piece, which I intend to make out of foam or worbla, with the vinyl I cut out in my silhouette!
That’s it for now – more once I cut fabric and get started on my sewing.